Peru – Salkantay Trail through the Andes to Machu-Picchu

The Quick and Dirty:
Location – Lima, Cuzco, Aguas Caliente, Andes Mountains, Mount. Salkantay, Peru
Travel Duration: 8 days
Visa needed for US Citizens?: No
Vaccination needed for Americans: Routine vaccination and antibiotics for well traveled areas such as Cuzco, Lima and Aguas Caliente 
Spanish necessary for traveling: No
Type of trip: Backpacking, hiking, site seeing
Total Cost of the trip including airfare: ~$1,000 per person

I found these incredibly cheap plane tickets from LAX to Lima, Peru shortly after my southeast Asia trip earlier this year. Along with the rest of LA who took advantage of the deal, Louis and I set out to conquer the Salkantay trek along with Macchu Picchu with three of our friends during the Thanksgiving break. We arrived well after dinner in Lima the first day, stayed at a hostel called Mami Pancheta in the San Miguel district and took the cab to the airport the first thing the following day to Cusco. As the old capital of ancient Peru, the city was filled with pre and post Spanish history, this would also be the meeting place for our tour group to star the Salkantay trek the following day.
Thankfully, we did not experience any of the delays notoriously known for Star Peru and arrived at Cuzco at midmorning. The hostel we stayed at the first night was Piccola Locanda, tucked away in one of the many side streets of Cuzco, the hostel was quaint and clean. Because Cuzco is approximately 11,000 feet above sea level, we were immediately offered Cocoa tea to help acclimate with the altitude.

Alpana and Edwin enjoying their Cocoa tea at Hostel Piccola Locanda.

 Plaza del Armas, Cuzco

We were warned over and over again not to stuff ourselves silly on our first day in Cuzco because of the high altitude. We were overcome with curiosity of the local cuisine and soon forgot all about the warnings. Lunch on the first day consist of alpaca on a skewer, potatoes, trout ceviche and roasted guinea pig, notice the awesome presentation of the guinea pig.

 Inside former temple of the sun, after the sack of the Spaniards, with the structure’s old foundation, convent of Santo Domingo was built on top of the former temple.

 First day of the Salkantay trail, 19kms of hiking total on the first day.

Edwin and Louis with mount Salkantay as the backdrop.

Our mules carrying our packs! Bag weights are limited to 5kg per person, if you want extra weight an extra 80 soles can buy you another mule to share with others.
The campground at the end of our first day. The elevation here was around 13,000 feet above sea level. This is the place where many people begin to feel the altitude sickness. Thankfully, no one in our group was sick, we’ve all been taking Diamox (altitude sickness medication) for a few days.
Outhouse with toilets without seat covers.
Eating with the group on the first night, temperature dropped 10 degrees below zero on the first night, and this is summer temperature!
Day 2, Louis and I feeling good at 14,000ft.
Finally got to the top! 15,225 feet!
 Our international team of awesomeness!
Alpaca grazing in the rain
Louis finally feeling the altitude after descending from our highest point.
 Daily tea time after the hike, my favorite.
Campground at night 2.
 Lunch at day 3, ceviche vegetables.
 End of the hike at day 2
how many people can you fit in a 8 person van in Cuzco?
 Day 4, after ascending 1,600 steps Machu Picchu!
 One of the countless number of llamas on top of Machu Picch
 Amar’s classy Peruian pink pants 😉
 Posing with the llamas
 At the entrance of Huayna Picchu (new peak), yes, we are getting ready to climb that peak in the background.

Amar and Andrew taking a break climbing Huayna Picchu. Unfortunately, those red pants never made it back to the bottom of the mountain in one piece…

 We made it to the top of Huayna Picchu, break time.
 Beautiful day, we were so thankful for the lack of rain and tourist. Sitting in front of the best views in the world enjoying the afternoon sun at Machu Picchu.
Last day in Lima

Lima, outside of Monastery of San Francisco right before the tour. Underneath the monastery, there’s 6 miles of catacombs, unfortunately, no photos were allowed during the tour of the catacombs. I highly recommend this when in Lima!

Last meal in Lima at Cordona, one of Lima’s oldest restaurant. This is the ceviche that left our stomachs aching the next day.

China

I spent the last leg of my Southeast Asia trip visiting friends and family in China. After making a quick stop in Hong Kong (eating delicious food and shopping) I flew to Fuzhou airport to spend some time with my extended family. Funny thing is, I can’t seem to find any of my family photos from the trip…
Coffee and dessert with childhood friends

Indonesia

The plane ride from KL to Bali was a little under three hours. Since Bali is south of the equator, the weather was much cooler, the island has a strong resemblance to Hawaii.
First meal of the trip, food is cheap here if you are willing to look for street food. A piece of meat, some veggies (usually kale) and an egg served with rice is roughly 1 dollar to 1.50.
We stayed at The Haven in Seminyak, Bali. The area is very touristy, filled with restaurants and shops for tourists. To get away from the crowd, Azrina and I decided to explore the city on foot.
The lush trees and tropical plants amidst the Balinese architecture made the walk very pleasant.
We found the beach, the waves were definitely more intimidating than Tioman Island waves in Malaysia!
Rice field in the middle of the city
I love the Balinese doors

Local soccer game

Day 2: We hire a taxi driver to drive us around the touristy spots of the island

Tanat Lot Temple, the temple sits on a large rock off shore and has been known as a popular tourist destination.
Local kid on vacation taking a photo with Azrina, apparently they’ve never seen a Malaysian before…

Lunch

The rice cakes marinated in peanut sauce, delicious!

Green beans and tempeh, according to Azrina, the tempeh is Bali is tastes much better than in Malaysia.

We also visited Uluwatu, another sea side template and a few local beaches, Padang Padang and Nusar Dua. I got lazy with my camera and did not take any additional photos.

Day 2: Bike tour at Ubud $40 per person

On the way to Ubud, the tour guide brought us to a coffee farm famous for its Luwak Kopi. Luwak Kopi is made from beans of coffee berries which have been passed through the digestive track of the Asian Palm Civet, who looks more or less like a weasel, washed and roasted. It’s apparently the world’s most expensive coffee.  The beans are supposed to taste less bitter and more aromatic.
Coffee beans defecated by the weasel.

The little girl who lived on the farm

Our sample of the coffees and teas at the farm

Getting ready for our bike ride after breakfast

The local kids posing for the camera

Harvested rice bushels

The kids knew what to do with the cleaver

Lunch with an ice cold Bintang

Malaysia

The trip to Kuala Lumpur from California took a little less than 24 hours. I arrived at Kuala Lumpur around 1AM in the morning, Azrina picked me up from the airport, it was so good to see her again! It’s been two years since we’ve seen each other in grad school, we chatted the entire drive back to her house in the outskirts of KL. Arriving at 1AM in the morning is less than ideal, I had a tough time adjusting to the local time the first night. Adrenaline kicked in after I got off the plane, it took me awhile to fall asleep that night. Since Malaysia is predominately a Muslim country,  I was woken up at the crack of dawn by the nearby mosque’s call for morning prayer.

Day 1: Kuala Lumpur, Batu Caves and food

We headed out after a quick breakfast to pick up Michelle from the airport. The weather was hot and humid, I keep forgetting how brutal the Asia humidity is, I was sweating profusely within minutes of stepping out of the door. The mild California weather has spoiled me. Public transportation in Malaysia is not ideal, the main source of transportation is via personal vehicle. Everywhere we went, we had to hop in Azrina’s car. The highway system around KL seem very well established and the day time traffic is comparable to LA.
After picking up Michelle, we drove to Batu Caves in the outskirts of the city. The cave is a Hindu worship temple. The drive did not take very long but the day was hot and the steps up the caves turned out to be a great workout for all of us. Going up the steps, we were greeted by lots of monkeys waiting to be fed by the tourists.
By the time I made it up the steps into the caves, I was filled head to toes with sweat. I was a little miserable inside the caves. It was hot, humid and the cave was FILLED with mosquitoes. Twenty minutes inside the cave, I got six mosquito bites, I almost forgot how much they loved me.

The indian snack shop outside the Batu caves.

Tioman Island and Malaka

We left KL at 4AM the next day to make the 360 kilometer drive to Mersing, a town in the southeast peninsular of Malaysia. The drive took exactly 5 hours and we arrived at the Mersing jetty for the 10AM ferry to Tioman Islands. The ferry tickets were 70 Riggits, roughly 23 USD round trip.
The ferry ride to Tioman island took roughly 90 minutes, there are several stops on the island, our stop was Paya beach.

After getting off the ferry, we had to wait for our resort to send a smaller boat to fetch for us. There is a walking path through the jungle to the resort, we decided to leave the exploring for later once we drop off our bags. Our resort was call Melina Resort, an awesome place tucked away at the corner of the island. Kudos to Azrina for booking the resort. If you want to get away from the Asian tourists, this is the place to be. For two nights, the three of us shared one room for $75 each at the beach front property. Breakfast was included in the resort fee but I would not recommend eating other meals at the resort, it can get a little pricey.
We dropped off our bags and headed towards the nearest village, Genting to get some lunch. The walk to Genting was nice and short, it took about 15 minutes to get to the edge of the town. The jungle was really lush, I even spotted a monkey and a four feet long lizard. We sat down and had a mixed riced plate at the edge of town and an ice lime tea drink for about $2.

Azrina relaxing in front of our resort room.

Sunset in front of the resort. Michelle and I rented snorkel gears and swam up and down the coast, there were lots of corals and fish to see. Sadly, for every coral we saw, there were twice to three times as many that were dead.

The next day we decided to explore Ranggit Island. The small island is located little past the town of Paya Beach, during low tide, it’s possible to walk across to the island. We were disappointed about not bringing our snorkel gear. Since the water was so calm, we decided to take a swim to cool off from the hot day.

After our morning swim, we headed to Paya beach for lunch.  I’m in love with the lime ice tea drink, it’s the perfect way to cool off from a hot day. The red drink below is called sirap rose drink, also very refreshing.

So far, the food in Malaysia has been amazing, the fusion of traditional Indian, Chinese and Malay food is delicious! It’s definitely training me to be a tougher spicy food eater!

Pattaya fried rice: fried rice placed inside an omelet.

Vermicelli noodles

Walking past town we noticed many families had moved their TV outside. I can’t imagine the card board keeping the TV dry during the monsoon rains… at least they have their priorities straight.

We stayed at Tioman for two nights and left on Sunday morning via the 7AM ferry. The sun was barely rising and the entire town is still quiet, not yet awake for the day, the entire scene was breathtaking.You can see our resort boat driving away after dropping us off at the dock.

Goodbye Tioman, our ferry taking us away back to Mersing.

Three hours west of Mersing is Malaka, one of the most touristy cities in Malaysia. Malaka used to be a popular trade route for countries like China, India and Thailand, now days, it seems like more of a tourist spot. Finding parking was a pain in the butt, we got greedy and wanted to park near Jonker Walk, the center of shops, this turned out to be a huge mistake, traffic was bumper to bumper. Maybe we were rushed, maybe the day was too hot, but I felt Malaka was another tourist trap filled with Asian tourists and useless knicknack shops. I was not impressed. I did however, find my Mandarin extremely useful in town as many of the shop keepers were Chinese. We ate a quick lunch and walked around Jonker Walk and eagerly left the tourist crazed city.

A little afternoon dessert before leaving Malaka, Ais kacang, shaved ice dessert popular in Malaysia topped with red beans, grass jelly and caramelized sugar. A little too sweet for my taste.

We got back to KL just in time for the night market down town. The smell of the market was intoxicating, the grilled satay is one of my favorite snacks here. The Malays really like putting curry and peanut sauce on the already marinated meat, but I prefer to eat it as is.

I love the food here, it’s such a melting pot of all of the best foods in Asia. Murtabak is a pancake stuffed with minced meat, onions and veggies served with curry sauce. It tastes amazing.

Tomorrow, the three of us are headed to Siem Reap, Cambodia to explore Ankor Wat.

Asia Travel Preparations

I’m starting this blog off with my upcoming trip to southeast Asia and mainland China. I have been traveling and backpacking quite a bit over the past two years but have been terrible at putting together photos and stories to share with friends and family. I hope to use this blog as a documentation of my trips and plan to use it a motivation to get through the 40 hour work week when I’m not out traveling. On to my May trip.

I am taking a month off in May to travel for the first part of May with my friends Michelle and Azrina in southeast Asia and end the trip with by visiting my grandparents and extended family in mainland China. I have purchased all the plane tickets for the places I will be visiting. Below is a google map I have created for the places I will visit. Below is a rough itinerary of the trip:
  • May 3-May 8: The first stretch of my trip will be Malaysia. Since Azrina currently lives in Kuala Lumpur, we will be traveling around the country with her car and staying with her family. Malaysia will also be a home base for us as we travel around southeast Asia.
  • May 8-May11: Siem Reap, Cambodia to see Ankor Wat and surrounding area
  • May 13-May 16: Azrina and I will be getting to Bali while Michelle heads home to northern California
Trip Preparation:
Traveling to Asia does not require too much preparation, visa is not required or can easily be obtained at the airport for most of the places I will be visiting. However, mainland China’s visa has to be applied in the US and the nearest Chinese ambassy is in downtown LA. I decided to pay a local travel agency to help me get the visa, in addition to the $140 visa fee, they charge $40 dollars to bring my passport and application to the Chinese embassy. The visa application process usually takes 7 days. Tip for others, make sure you give yourself enough time to obtain this visa, I was cutting it really close on with mine.
No visa is required for Malaysia but there is one required for Cambodia and Indonesia. Both of these visas can be obtained upon arrival at the airport, make sure to bring exact cash as the custom people do not always have the right change. Cambodia offers a online visa for a 30 day tourist entry for $20 with a $5 processing fee, I applied for the e-visa to avoid the airport traffic. The Camobida e-visa takes 1 to 3 days to process. Bali’s visa is also $20 for a 30 day entry, I plan to apply for it at the airport as they do not offer online visas.